We boarded our ferry bound for Koh Muk, also spelt Mook, and stopped at two other islands along the way: Koh Ngai and Koh Kradan. We were especially star struck over Kradan! Because this island was actually one of the top islands we wanted to visit. Crystal waters and great snorkeling is what it offers. The problem? Decent accommodation within our budget parameters. Oh well… at least we had a small viewing.
Shortly after, we arrived on Muk. It was small, quaint and provided some beautiful crystal waters with the softest sand our feet had ever touched. Baby powder! It felt like we were walking on baby powder!
We stayed at the Mountain View Resort, which was honestly the nicest bungalow we have had thus far!
It was also within walking distance to Charlie Beach aka Farang Beach. Oh, just as an fyi, farang is Thai for foreigner. Charlie beach is beautiful and has a couple cute beach bars perfect for sunset cocktails. We really loved sipping our drinks and watching the best Thai sunsets we had seen on our travels.
The next day we had big plans! We were up at 7am and back on Charlie Beach at 07:20. On the far side of the beach there is a bar called Mung Bar. Unlike the bar next door, this guy rents his kayaks for 100 baht per hour and 50 baht for each additional hour. He also lets you pay when you return your kayak. Unlike the competitor next door who expects you to pay before and doesn’t discount additional hours. So obviously we rented a kayak from him. He also threw in a head light at no extra charge.
We asked him how we could get to the very famous Emerald Cave. He told us to paddle up and around the bend. From there we would see the entrance. So we did just that. It was about 30 minutes or so until we arrived. We were the only souls there. We turned on the head light and paddled into the small opening. The smell of bat feces was potent, the waves echoed as they smashed into the walls of the cave. Which way do we go? Right? Left? This looks correct? It was pitch black with a measly head light to guide our way. What’s that up ahead? Emerald light! That must be it! We laid our bodies flat so we could fit our kayak through the tight opening. We’d arrived! It was glorious! Pristine! And we were the only ones there! We had beat the crowds as intended. We swam around in the crystal waters for about 30 minutes until 3 others arrived. We also noticed the tide was coming in. This was our cue. Now it was a race against the tide. We had to lay our bodies flat a few times to avoid getting smashed against the cave ceiling. And finally we made it out, just in time!
There were 3 main reasons we got our start at 7am.
First, we could rent a kayak starting at that time.
Second, it was low tide so we were able to kayak in and out.
Third, we could avoid paying the 200Baht/person entrance fee which began at 9am.
Our trip to Emerald Cave cost us a total of 130 baht. If you decide to go to Emerald Cave follow our route. You will see tours from other islands that come here by the boat loads. They make the tourists create a chain and swim in. For this type of day trip they will charge you around 800 Baht. You might also be swayed into buying a longboat and a guide. They will try to charge you at least 700 Baht per person!
So if you are on a budget and like a bit of privacy on your adventure, do yourself a favor and rent a kayak.
The rest of the day we decided to swim around the beach by Sivali Resort until an afternoon storm rolled in. Which was okay with us since we were absolutely exhausted.
That night, things got weird. We went to dinner at our favorite local spot, Hilltop Restaurant (delicious food and amazing portions!). Afterwards, on our walk back, Pete heard an interesting sound coming from the bushes. “Don’t go in there, it could be a rats nest or something!” I yelled. But of course he couldn’t resist. What he ended up finding were 4 small puppies in a bag. There was no sign of their mamma and it was rather peculiar that they would find themselves in a bag. Which led us to believe someone purposefully left them for dead. So what did we do? Bring them back to our accommodation because of course they would know what to do!
So here we are with the owner of the bungalows and ourselves staring at these pups. Who haven’t even opened their eyes yet. They need food and warmth. So the bungalow lady tells us to keep them for one night and she will take them the next. She also gives us a couple things of milk.
How in the world do we feed these babes?? Pete had an idea! A condom! We took one out, cleaned the lubricant off, poked a hole in the tip. Perfect! A nipple was created! We filled it with milk and the nursing began.
The next morning before we departed for Koh Lipe, Pete cleaned the fleas and worms off the pups and showed our bungalow lady how to feed them with a condom. She blushed like a school girl!
We only hope those pups got a fighting chance. But honestly, who knows? We’d like to think they are still alive and growing up to be the sweet island doggies they were supposed to be.
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